ATX Weekend

If someone said, “Hey, Sarah, create your dream weekend,” I think it’d look a lot like this past weekend in Austin, Texas. I spent three days with four of my favorite people. We stayed in a gorgeous house (Airbnb is the best) and explored a seriously cool city. The weather had that perfect 75-and-breezy thing going, and we dined on patios and sat in the sun all weekend long.

For anyone interested, I’m putting my little “Guide to an Austin Weekend” below. We chose these spots based in large part on excellent recs from friends of my friend Laura (who was master planner for this trip), as well as a few other friend recommendations and the occasional suggestion from articles in the New York Times and Travel + Leisure. Consider this a tested, tried, and true list of some awesome Austin spots if you’re in the mood for a relaxed, food-filled weekend in a fun city.
Restaurants:
Launderette: Stylish, amazing small plates, order the pimento cheese, do NOT skip dessert
Jo’s Coffee (on South Congress): Get there early for breakfast tacos, order iced coffee, and sit on the deck
Perla’s: Perfect tree-shaded patio. Incredible seafood. Best people watching.
Geraldine’s: Great spot for cocktails, shared plates, and an elevated view of downtown
Justine’s: Seriously cool French restaurant. Go—and stay—late. Order steak tartare, french fries, and sazeracs.
Irene’s: Brunch includes patio seating, rose on draft, and multiple versions of toasts (I think the kids call this basic, but whatever, it was great)
June’s: Delightfully colorful street side cafe that feels more Paris than Texas
Guero’s Taco Bar: Casual TexMex in a historical restaurant with live music next door
Nightlife:
Garage: Cozy, candlelit bar with creative cocktails—inside a parking garage
Midnight Cowboy: Reservations required at this massage parlor-turned-speakeasy where you ring an innocuous buzzer to get in. Drinks are made table side—and strong.
Stay Gold: Sophisticated drinks, lounge-y vibe, great jazz music.
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Recreation:
Lady Bird Lake Loop Trail: Waterside trail with great city and river views.
Barton Spring’s Pool: This bright blue spring-fed pool in the middle of town was full of swimmers—even in January.
South Congress Vintage Shopping: Feathers and Uncommon Objects seemed to be the favorites, but there’s plenty here to keep any shopper happy.

A Baby and a Blizzard

It’s taken me a week to get to this post, but I think of this as a “better late than never” situation because I want to have this here. One day, when I’m very old and my nephew, Patton, is all grown up and having his own babies, I’m going to say, “I’ve got some baby photos of you.”

By then blogs will be obsolete. And he’ll probably be annoyed I don’t have baby holograms of him. But I’ll show him this blog in the same way my own aunt has shown me photo albums and scrapbooks.

So, to the future Patton: You were loved deeply from the second you arrived. And on your one-week birthday, your mom, dad, grandma, and aunt, spent a cozy weekend in a warm Massachusetts house while it poured snow outside in a winter storm the weathermen called Helena. We cuddled you in soft blankets and laughed at your silly faces and chubby cheeks. We watched movies and your dad and I went for walks in the snow. Your parents read books to you and played with you in the sun. And I thought your grandma was going to cry as she rocked you in her arms and kissed you goodbye. You were one seriously lucky kid. But I’m betting you know that by now.

 

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I’ve never been great with the whole resolutions thing. But if anyone can help you resolve stuff, it’s Oprah, right? So this is my 2017 New Year’s Resolution in one quote—to use my gifts and passions to serve others.

I like to look back at years by remembering my favorite travel moments. Mostly because this inspires me to start planning the next year’s destinations. 2016 took me to some of the most interesting and beautiful places I’ve ever been. From right to left and top to bottom, here’s where:

Palmetto Bluff, South Carolina. This was my second trip to this gorgeous property and it’s only become more beautiful. This time, I went with my friend Katie and we had the best time exploring its trails and rivers—and eating for three days straight.

Puerto Rico. The first time I went to Puerto Rico, my experience was a little more bohemian. There were festivals, drinking, exploring—and a pretty violent shooting. This trip to Puerto Rico was all poolside lounging, luxe spas, champagne—and the fear of a high-risk virus. This country is never boring.

Portsmouth, NH. When I was in grad school I interned in DC as a political correspondent for a newspaper in New Hampshire. But until this summer, I’d never set foot in the state. This charming waterside town with its historic buildings and winding streets was a perfect spot to spend a warm summer day.

Hood Canal, WA. Basically everything in Washington State is gorgeous. But the most beautiful scenery I’ve found is when you catch a ferry west from Seattle. Alderbrook Resort, with its cozy interior, gorgeous views, and seemingly endless outdoor options was one of my favorite places I’ve ever been.

Charleston, SC. I never get tired of Charleston—I mean, it’s a beach side town with some of the best food in the country. Hello, dream world. And this summer I stayed at the new hotel, The Restoration, which was amazing. In fact, the word amazing doesn’t do it justice. From its rooftop pool to its chic coffee shop, I wanted to permanently move in.

Caneel Bay, St. John’s. This Caribbean spot had been on my bucket list for years and it didn’t disappoint. I loved its many beaches, crystal clear waters, incredible food, and relaxing vibe. I also went on my best hike of the year there, to the top of a mountain where the view included 360 degrees of other islands and azure blue water as far as you could see.

Los Angeles, CA. I traveled to LA twice this year—once for fun and once for work. Realistically, I’m too innately Southern to be cut out for the West Coast. But man, Southern California. I never get tired of visiting this part of the country.

Palm Springs, CA. Speaking of Southern California, I’m super glad that Palm Springs got popular enough recently to convince myself and two friends to spend a weekend there. We spent three days riding our bikes around, looking at cool architecture, and eating avocado toast. I think we did it right.

Oregon Coast. I spent a weekend last February on the beach in Lincoln City, Oregon. It was one of those places that about every half hour I’d be like “Wow, I’ve seriously never seen anything like this.” Massive waves and stunning beaches. But the drive down from Seattle to the beach was actually the coolest part. Just unreal views.

 

 

 

 

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I’ve had a longstanding obsession with Russia in the first half of the 20th century. It started when I read the book Nina’s Journey the year it came out. That was 1989. I was seven. I can’t imagine why my parents thought it was a good idea for a 7-year-old to read an autobiography from Stalin’s Russia, but that’s an entry for another day. Anyway, my mini-review of my latest read:

The Book: It’s a beautifully told story about a cultured aristocrat who is put under house arrest in Moscow’s most luxurious hotel after the bolsheviks take power. And he remains there for decades—living an incredible life inside its walls.

Favorite Aspect: The food and wine descriptions. This may be the first time I’ve put down a book thinking, “Well, that really left me craving some caviar.” The author makes food and drinks sound as beautiful as any scenery and as charming as any person.

Top quote: “For what matters in life is not whether we receive a round of applause; what matters is whether we have the courage to venture forth despite the uncertainty of acclaim.” So, so true, right?

 

 

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This fall I wrote a book. It’s called “Secret Charlotte: A guide to the weird, wonderful, and obscure,” and it’s part of a series of similar books in other cities. The reasons I chose to write this aren’t all that romantic. My publisher from a previous book called and asked if I’d be up for writing it. I said yes because I’m incapable of saying no.

Around October I started hating myself. Books aren’t easy to write in general and this one was especially hard because it required hours (and hours and hours) of research. It’s filled with a mix of old and new quirky stories about Charlotte.

At some point in my writing though something completely unexpected happened: I became obsessed with Charlotte’s past. Charlotte, a town I’ve covered for years, is often accused of destroying its past and covering it up with something shiny. Before, I’d been mildly disturbed by this in the “I wish we hadn’t torn down those old buildings because it’d be nice to have a little more character in that yuppie neighborhood” kind of way.

But when you’ve spent hours reading about the people who shaped a city before you were ever even born, something changes. Now, I drive down streets imagining what they looked like before. When I see old buildings, I wonder who lived there. I notice street names I’ve never considered and wonder who they’re named after—and who named them, and who lived on them, and why they seemingly inexplicably curve at certain points.

I’ve long since turned in the manuscript. But I can’t get enough. This photo was one of my favorites that I dug up. (I think it was from the Observer, but can’t remember.) Every time I look at it, it reminds me of It’s a Wonderful Life. It’s Christmas in 1940, right around when parts of the famed movie took place.

The shot is standing on North Tryon Street at 6th Street looking south into Uptown Charlotte. The Mayfair that’s on the right is now The Dunhill. And Carolina Theater there on the left is now being restored. Learning about the city’s history has made me think about other things when I see this too:

Things like, all those neon signs were so prevalent then that the city thought they were cluttering the streets and declared they needed to be taken down. Ratcliffe’s Flowers was owned by a stubborn war veteran who refused. Today, his former store’s building has been moved up the block, but his sign was declared a historic landmark and still hangs on The Green on South Tryon.

And really even this is just history layered on history. Before the Mayfair Manor (now Dunhill) was built, Tryon Street Methodist Episcopal Church stood on this property. The church though had only had the property since the 1860s. Before that it was owned by a man named Joel Huggins, a slave holder who moved to Texas with two other families around the time he sold the property to the church. (He posted an advertisement in a local newspaper looking for me to help him move his family’s slaves across the country.) Huggins would go on to fight for the Confederacy and survive the war, but die a few years later in 1869.

These are the kinds of rabbit holes I’ve been going down all fall. And now, when I go to dinner at the Dunhill’s Asbury restaurant (named for the original hotel’s architect), I can’t help but think about the hotel’s glory days as the city’s best, and the church there before it, and Huggins before that. (I also can’t help but talk about all this. I’ve become super annoying to hang out with.)

Anyway, I’d write more, but in writing this I’ve become curious about the other two families who moved to Texas with Huggins. So, I’m off to more digging.

 

 

 

Puppy Love

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We don’t know Pawley’s exact birthday, but sometime right around now six years ago this little adorable animal was born somewhere in Gaston County, North Carolina.

I found her about five weeks later. It was a rainy and cold Wednesday in January. My friend Jenn and I took an extra-long lunch and drove to the animal shelter in Gastonia to see about her adopting a dog she’d noticed on their Facebook page. (Six years later, Jenn still only has two cats.)

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But as I waited for Jenn, I noticed a shivering pile of brown and black puppies in one of the outdoor pens. You couldn’t even count them, they were so bundled together, trying to get warm. I asked a nearby worker if I could hold one. Which one? he asked. Any of them, I said.

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He reached into the pile and pulled out Pawley. These have been here awhile, he said. Tomorrow is their last day. And thus the story of how Pawley became the third member of our little family.

She hasn’t always been the easiest dog:

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But Pawley is one of the greatest things to ever happen to me. She shares my adoration for the outdoors and for bacon. She’s my favorite companion for walks and runs. She’s the protector of our little group. And she’s probably taught me more about love than any human.

So, this is my “happy birthday to Pawley” post. And my “if you can, get a rescue” post. Because she’s my best crazy decision.

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Giving Thanks and Eating Cannolis

It’s been one week since Thanksgiving. And it’s taken me this long to have six extra seconds to post about it. Holiday season business is no joke, you guys.

Anyway, Thanksgiving was awesome. Michiel and I went to visit my brother and his wife—who is eight months pregnant!—at their cozy home in the Massachusetts countryside.  The holiday was about 50% sleeping, 40% eating more food than is socially acceptable, and 10% other fun things like hikes in the woods, exploring Concord, Mass. walking around Harvard’s campus, and checking out the Christmas lights in Quincy Market. In my fantasy life, this is how my time would always be split.

 

A Walk in the Woods

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Last week, someone said something in passing to me about how they’d read once that lots of super successful people were solo walkers. Like, historical thinkers enjoyed going on walks alone to clear their heads—and often come up with new ideas.

I couldn’t stop thinking about this. So yesterday afternoon I packed both pups into the car and drove to Crowder’s Mountain for a four-mile hike to its peak.

It was a perfect day for it. The fall colors right now are unbelievably vibrant. And it was one of those perfectly crisp and clear late autumn afternoons. So, I turned off my phone, strapped on their harnesses, and the three of us set out.
It wasn’t all glorious. Rosie has inch-long legs and so today my right arm is sore from carrying a chubby dachshund up half a mountain. Of course, my left arm is sore from holding back Pawley, who would have preferred to not be on a leash and rather chase all forms of wildlife on the mountain. I’m the only person in the world who returns from a hiking trip with sore arms.
But it was pretty wonderful. I don’t think it made me the next Charles Dickens or Mark Zuckerberg. Yet. But consider me sold on how relaxing a walk alone in the woods can be.

California Dreaming (Again)

The entire state of California is basically cost prohibitive for me. But when I’m perusing homes for sale for fun, I inevitably end up there. This house is my latest favorite. It’s in Corte Madera, just north of San Francisco. I love it for the unusual layout, bright rooms, incredible views, and cool modern touches. So, if they could just decrease its price by about  85%, we’d be in business.

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